Short answer: You remove seams by gluing the joint
properly, letting it cure, then sanding, filling (if needed), and polishing
until the seam disappears under primer.
Below is the full, detailed workflow.
1. Identify the seam
Seams show up where two halves of a part meet—tank barrels,
aircraft fuselages, car bodies, etc. Run your fingernail along the joint; if
you feel a ridge, it needs work.
2. Use the right glue technique
For most plastic kits, liquid cement (Tamiya Extra
Thin, Mr. Cement S, etc.) is ideal.
Why? It melts the plastic slightly, allowing the two
halves to fuse into a single piece.
How to do it:
- Apply
cement along the seam.
- Press
the parts together firmly until a small bead of melted plastic squeezes
out.
- Let it
cure at least 12–24 hours.
That squeezed‑out plastic becomes your filler.
3. Scrape the seam
Once cured, use the back of a hobby
knife blade to gently scrape the raised seam. This quickly levels the
joint without removing too much material.
Start with a medium grit and work your way finer:
- 400–600
grit: remove remaining ridge
- 800–1000
grit: smooth the area
- 1500–2000
grit: polish for paint
Use sanding sticks or sponges to control pressure.
5. Check your work with primer
A light coat of primer reveals flaws instantly. If you still
see a line, don’t panic—this is normal.
Sand again or move to the next step.
6. Fill gaps if needed
If the seam is still visible, use one of these fillers:
- Putty
(AMMO, Tamiya, Vallejo)
- Putty
Surfacer (AMMO)
- CA glue
(super glue)
- Sprue Goo (sprue melted in cement)
Apply, let it cure, then sand again.
Tip: CA glue is
great for thin seams because it sands very smooth.
7. Restore lost details
Sanding often removes panel lines or rivets. Use a scriber
or needle to re‑engrave lines lightly.
This step is what separates “good enough” from “pro‑level.”
8. Final polish before paint
Use a fine sanding sponge or micromesh to blend the repaired
area into the surrounding plastic. The surface should feel uniform and smooth.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using
thick glue that doesn’t melt the plastic
- Sanding
too early before the glue cures
- Skipping
primer, which hides nothing
- Over‑sanding,
flattening curves or edges
We hope this helps and please add your favorite technics in the comments, AFV Hobby Hub
Leave your comment